Final Pictures

Finally Handed in today and got to see my costume on the correct size mannequin instead of my own which is bigger.  i am please that it all fits.

Final Evaluation

This unit has been a huge learning curve for myself and has really tested my abilities as a costume maker.  Going into the unit still completing CIC did prove challenging but building on reflection from that unit I planned my time well and completed it without getting behind.  Wanting to really improve my grade as I have always stayed around 65 I have looked at areas previously suggested I work on.  Technical skills and presentation is something that I planned to improve upon throughout this unit.  As it involved a lot of precise technical construction methods it has really pushed me and my skills as a maker to a higher level.

Having not seen many Ballets before, being able to sit down and watch a range of dance pieces and greatly improve my knowledge of the subject.  Being able to discuss the productions has encouraged me to really look at performances and have confidence to criticise what I don’t like and why.  Watching such a diverse range of ballet has solidified my interest in the area, Matthew Bourne’s ballets, the Trocks Bro showed me that ballet isn’t always classical.   I have completely immersed myself in the world of dance, writing my POP essay on this area and travelling to see other dance performances such as ‘Missing’ and Scottish Ballet ‘Street Car Named Desire’.  I plan to visit more over the summer so that I have a greater knowledge of the area in time for EMP in which I wish to pursue this option.

As said previously the construction of the costume involved many new techniques which I did struggle with as any person learning a new skill would, because of this my final finishing’s of the costume are not completely up to scratch however this will come with time. Learning these new skills and making mistakes has allowed me to be critical and learn from them.  For example; pressing lighter with the tailors chalk, using clean pins and taking care of the costume which proves harder than first thought as even small catches with a cracked nail pulls the slipper satin.  The skirt of the tutu was again a new challenge that I took on well.  Having had a very creased bit of net which I cannot get the creases out of has taught me to make sure if I’m not happy with the quality of the fabric to change it.  I also held the iron too close to the skirt which made it get very thin.  All these learning points are things that next time I will be able to do right.  I wish to continue constructing tutus over the summer to get my skills up to scratch as I feel in the technical side my quality slipped in some places.

Within this unit we also had a decoration workshop.  I found this incredible helpful, learning not to take this at face value.  It really taught me to look at decoration to see how they can be manipulated and taken apart to create something else. Looking at colour and thinking of character are important in ballet and need to be reflected across a theatre mainly through the decoration.  Having to really think about this during the workshop was harder than you think but it has really taught me to look into the character and what I can add to the costume to reflect that.

Being able to reflect on myself within a blog was a challenge at first but it has really helped me to be critical of my work and allowed me to pin point any problem areas that I need to work upon.  It has also helped to improve my time keeping as I have had to keep updating and reflecting so I wanted something to reflect upon.

In conclusion it has been a great unit and feel like everything taught was new.  I have learnt a great deal of skills in this area not just technical making skills but contextual as well.  I feel my confidence in my own ability and initiative has improved as working independently has been a big part of this unit.   Moving into next year I hope to build on my skills learnt in this unit and any issues arisen so that I am fully prepared for next year.   

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Little Wood Nymph

Finally finished the petals which I'm going to call leaves as they are green,  My costume looks very much like a Wood Nymph or forest creature seen in early ballets.

This was the exciting part of arranging the leaves into an attractive pattern following the design for guidance.  The leave were meant to look as though they had be blown across by a breeze.  This was trickier than first thought as my colour green is quite pale unless mixed with the others closely. I did get a bit carried away on the  bodice but did take a few off and place them on the skirt.

We had to put them on in 3 different ways manipulating the circle so that they didn't all look uniform.

I'm not going to lie the excitement of the leaves soon came crashing down with the stitching them on with invisible thread.  Frustratingly slippery and annoying that each time you thought you'd cast on it unravelled. 

I got incredibly annoyed with the process and felt that because the thread was slippery you had to pull it tighter than normal thread in order for it to lock on and knot.  This they shows on the fabric which i found impossible to make look invisible.  I did after do a tester using thin cotton and you can barely see it.  As it will be seen from an audience i don't think this would be an issue so next time i will use cotton especially on the skirt where the invisible thread refused to hold and cause i didn't want to pull it there are loops of thread.

After 2 days of getting frustrated it is finally done. 

i am pleased with the overall look of the costume.  There are a few tweaks I'd do next time as maybe not have as many at the waist but after removing one from the waist i realised that it leaves a mark on the bodice so left the rest and blended it in.

i did want to have lots on the bodice as the colour against the net isn't hugely visible so i wanted to get the colour across in the bodice and I'm glad i did as i think from a distance with all the petals layered up looks quite striking.

If i were to have more time or even in hindsight i would make a few more leaves to add to the skirt but overall i am pleased.

Petals

Making the petals or leaves!

For our decoration we each got given a colour mine being a dark green and were to make petals that look a though they have been blown across the front of the bodice and down the tutu. As mine were green they look a lot like leaves so my costume will look like a woodland creature when finished.

Using the template and the excess net cut out 64 petals making sure they are neat as the edges will show.

I then had to dye the net with silk paint, i used Seta Silk Paint in Moss Green and Meadow Green mixed together to get the right colour.  The petals needed to fade towards the middle so layers of paint was applied.  I applied five the fifth being on the very outer edge.

This i found rather tricky as when laid out on a plastic sheet they were impossible to see!  Therefore not easy to paint once the first few layers were on it became easier.  i didn't notice the change in colour at first but towards the edge i can.

I painted them on newspaper then transferred them to kitchen towel as the silk paint is runny and pools on the paper leaving blotches on the net.  This worked well and on the last layer of paint i left it on the kitchen towel for it to pick up a bit more colour. 

I'm really happy with the colour of them and think that it is quite near to the colour  wanted. (see design here)

I have just started pinning them onto the bodice now as you can see in the picture below. They do go down the straps which i have yet to attach as the ones i had were not very strong and snapped.  As said it is meant to look as though a breeze has blown them across the front.

Final finishings

Very nearly finished now just the petals to go!

Here are a few pictures of the fastenings on the bodice and the waistband of the skirt. 

The Bodice had 5 hook and bars on it with the hooks on the top sided lined up with the stitching on the bone line.  Important to have one on the waist point as this area takes the most strain.

Sewing these of with button hole stitch is always quite difficult to start with as the hooks like to move, once one sides done is easier to do the other.

On the skirt is a bigger trouser fastening at the top as it is stronger and will hole the waistband in place better.  I opted to put 2 more smaller ones underneath to keep the whole of the back together. 

These took a lot longer than expected and did put me behind in my schedule but i should be back on track soon.

Skirt to Bodice.

This was a rather exciting bit as its starting to look complete.

Firstly you pin through the bottom of the waistband to the waistline on the bodice then place on the mannequin and pin through the piping to the basque.  Then back stitch it on .This was tricky as there is a lot of quite thick areas of fabric to go through, and having a brief 20 mins of brain fog about how to do a back stitch made it seem harder than it was.

Remembering to stop at the elasticated bits and a bit from the c/b so that it can stretch with the elastic otherwise it may distort the bodice or net.

The to finish i place swing catches on all the seams bar the side seams to stop it moving around and squishing down when the ballet dancer dances.

These end few bits just showed me how much thought goes into a ballet costume that you don't think about when you are just looking at it.  Also how everything has a purpose it may feel like its a never ending cycle of hand stitching but it needs to all be there.

Reflection of sleeves

Originally i was quite daunted by the fact that we were going to have to create these sleeves independently as i have always found sleeves rather tricky.  However i found it surprisingly enjoyable.

To start with is was a rather tricky process of working out how to adapt the pattern to the specific style wanted and as seen in my first sleeve can go wrong.  Even though i measure my own arms to check i didn't take into account the lack of stretch in the fabric.  However i did learn from this and went on to produce a second sleeve which i am much happier with.

This workshop has allowed me to work independently which has greatly improved my confidence in my skills.  I have had to overcome issues and work out problems by myself which has increased my learning and skills and knowledge as I've had to be critical of my work and really look into the construction of the sleeve.

Its also encouraged me to look at different types of fabric and how to manipulate them and add to them to create the desired effect.  i feel that i have done well with this area especially with my second sleeve as i really thought about the style and material and how to create structure without being to heavy as the dancer needs movement there so can't have a heavy sleeve.

I researched a bit before starting the workshop as i wanted to have a greater understanding of the needs of the dancer.  i found it really interesting that the sleeves are higher underneath and wider at the top to help them move.  It has really taught me the basics of making a sleeve for a ballet dancers and over the summer i may have a play around with a few more to get my skills up to scratch.

overall it has been a good learning curve and i have learnt things that can be translated into other areas of costume as well.  Along with improving my confidence in problem solving and my ability to work independently.

Constructing sleeves

After getting some inspiration for my sleeve i went on to make up 2 sleeves.  We already had a basic one piece sleeve which we were going to have to adapt.

Sleeve 1

    My first sleeve i attempted was a pretty frilly one with quite a narrow sleeve to it. We had to make the sleeves out of a sympathetic fabric. I chose for this one a thin polyester mix satin ( probably use silk if it were for a real garment)  with chiffon/ crepe ruffles,  along with a few ribbons etc.

I did find the drafting quite tricky as what you thing looks like the arm circumference isn't always the case as i found out with this first sample.  Even by measuring my own arm with the trimmings and elastic it still was a bit tight.

Anyway instructions:

• I lowered the top of the sleeve head on the pattern and widened it as well to allow for movement. I cut it just under the elbow line for turnings and took it in at the sides quite a bit for the narrow sleeve (now knowing too much)
• Cut out on fabric. 
• Machine stitch two rows of gathering stitch in the seam allowance around the sleeve head ready to gather up later.  Neaten hem.
• All trimmings sewn on before the sleeve is sewn up.

• Take length of the chiffon in twos colours and fold in half (saves having to neaten the seams) 
• Create a channel along the top for the elastic. Insert elastic.
• Stitch to the cuff of the sleeve with the elastic stretched out.
• Place braid over elastic and stitch in place.
• Sew down sleeve and over lock.

Findings:

Once finished it was established that the sleeve was too tight and not wide enough the  braiding on the cuff should have been sewn on with the elastic as it has created tension and tightened the sleeve so it can't expand with the elastic.  i also needed to have made the pattern wider when drafting it.

Overall i do like the look and think that the fabric choices were a good representation of what they should be maybe the satin could have been a bit lighter. 

Sleeve 2

Having had issues with the first sleeve i decided to make up another one to rectify any mistakes.  This time i chose a 'national' style 3/4 length sleeve with quite a puff.  It took a while and lots of different fabrics later to find one that would puff out and stay out but looks dainty. I used a polyester organza again for the real thing i'd use a silk organza, to give it some structure.

I decided to use double layers of it with a layer of the tulle sandwiched in the middle to create more structure and as it will be used when dancing in will ensure that it can return to its original state if squashed.

Instructions:

• Like before widened the head of the sleeve considerable to 28inchs wide and shortened the length to elbow height.

• Placed the net inside the 2 layers of organza and pinned and cut out.
• Gathering stitch like before.
• Folded up cuff to create a channel for the elastic and added the trimming to the top stitch line and stitch it on .  Add blue braid over the top.
• Insert elastic.
• stitch down sleeve and gather head.

I am much happier with this sample i can fit it on my arm! The material and net have worked really well and looked structured without the risk of being uncomfortable. 

This workshop has been really helpful as its shown me that sleeves that go into normal costumes can be adapted and made into ballet costumes.  It s made me realise the differences and why the sleeves need to be different from other sleeves and has been a good learning curve as i can learn from my mistakes.