Constructing sleeves

After getting some inspiration for my sleeve i went on to make up 2 sleeves.  We already had a basic one piece sleeve which we were going to have to adapt.

Sleeve 1

    My first sleeve i attempted was a pretty frilly one with quite a narrow sleeve to it. We had to make the sleeves out of a sympathetic fabric. I chose for this one a thin polyester mix satin ( probably use silk if it were for a real garment)  with chiffon/ crepe ruffles,  along with a few ribbons etc.

I did find the drafting quite tricky as what you thing looks like the arm circumference isn't always the case as i found out with this first sample.  Even by measuring my own arm with the trimmings and elastic it still was a bit tight.

Anyway instructions:

• I lowered the top of the sleeve head on the pattern and widened it as well to allow for movement. I cut it just under the elbow line for turnings and took it in at the sides quite a bit for the narrow sleeve (now knowing too much)
• Cut out on fabric. 
• Machine stitch two rows of gathering stitch in the seam allowance around the sleeve head ready to gather up later.  Neaten hem.
• All trimmings sewn on before the sleeve is sewn up.

• Take length of the chiffon in twos colours and fold in half (saves having to neaten the seams) 
• Create a channel along the top for the elastic. Insert elastic.
• Stitch to the cuff of the sleeve with the elastic stretched out.
• Place braid over elastic and stitch in place.
• Sew down sleeve and over lock.

Findings:

Once finished it was established that the sleeve was too tight and not wide enough the  braiding on the cuff should have been sewn on with the elastic as it has created tension and tightened the sleeve so it can't expand with the elastic.  i also needed to have made the pattern wider when drafting it.

Overall i do like the look and think that the fabric choices were a good representation of what they should be maybe the satin could have been a bit lighter. 

Sleeve 2

Having had issues with the first sleeve i decided to make up another one to rectify any mistakes.  This time i chose a 'national' style 3/4 length sleeve with quite a puff.  It took a while and lots of different fabrics later to find one that would puff out and stay out but looks dainty. I used a polyester organza again for the real thing i'd use a silk organza, to give it some structure.

I decided to use double layers of it with a layer of the tulle sandwiched in the middle to create more structure and as it will be used when dancing in will ensure that it can return to its original state if squashed.

Instructions:

• Like before widened the head of the sleeve considerable to 28inchs wide and shortened the length to elbow height.

• Placed the net inside the 2 layers of organza and pinned and cut out.
• Gathering stitch like before.
• Folded up cuff to create a channel for the elastic and added the trimming to the top stitch line and stitch it on .  Add blue braid over the top.
• Insert elastic.
• stitch down sleeve and gather head.

I am much happier with this sample i can fit it on my arm! The material and net have worked really well and looked structured without the risk of being uncomfortable. 

This workshop has been really helpful as its shown me that sleeves that go into normal costumes can be adapted and made into ballet costumes.  It s made me realise the differences and why the sleeves need to be different from other sleeves and has been a good learning curve as i can learn from my mistakes.