Piping

On the way to completion of my bodice.  Moving on from the stage of herringbone the bones down i now have to add the piping to the design line top and bottom. 

It was recommended that we use 00 size piping as it gives a nice, delicate feel to the bodice oppose to a thicker one that could look chunky.

Using the bias of the slipper satin i cut lengths 5cm wide for the piping to sit within.  As using the bias of the fabric it allows it to bend with the curves of the bodice over the bust without distorting the fabric or changing the shape of the bodice.

Using a piping foot i sewed the piping into the satin.  I found this process incredibly difficult due to the fact that the piping was so thin and kept unravelling and the satin was slippery the piping foot had nothing to hold onto and keeping it position proved a challenge in which my stitching went off a bit not completely in line.  I will however once sew to the bodice unpick these bits just to make the inside of the bodice looking neater.

We constructed the piping in a way which meant it could be altered in the future, as ballet costumes may be used for long periods of time they need to be adapted if the dancer changes size or another dancer is needed. We added extra on the placket to allow for this and other areas were added. This makes it simpler and easier if it does need to be altered as it means that the piping doesn't need to be redone.  How we did it was very well thought out and more details will be in my workbook.

It was important not to catch the piping cord as it can be used to shape the bodice over the bust.  I think in some areas i caught mine due to the thinness of the piping but as mine is not being made for someone it is ok  i will be able to learn from this and next time not catch it.

Sewing it onto the bodice again was quite difficult for the same reasons as before.  It was far better though as the machine had something to grip onto as it was thicker however the piping did twist over the bust more than I'd have like.  But this will all come with experience to get it perfect.

Finishing the seams of the piping off was difficult to get the seams folded under neatly as they did fold and crease.  Mine isn't the most even of seams but it was the only way to stop it pleating.  Again like before this will only come with experience.

Having finished it there are a few things that next time i will look watch out for. 

• Not leaving the pins in too long when slip stitch.  I pinned mine then we had our presentation so i left them in for 1 day or 2 and they created small holes in the satin where they had been.  I'm hoping when i press it they will drop out.
• Clean pins,  it was suggested that we get clean pins but having not had a previous problem when pinning my bodice together i thought mine would be ok. However it seemed that i was wrong and a few little black pin marks are on the bodice, mainly on the inside but i'd still prefer for them not to be there.
• Slip stitch my piping down. I'm not sure how i'd do this again but i suppose practise will sort out the issues here.
• Piping stitching could be neater.

It may seem i'm being pernickety but i like to have my costume being perfect which i know never happens first time and will come with practise but by having this attitude it allows me to want to push myself in the future to get that perfection.